When I went to Thailand, I wanted to just see an elephant, maybe touch one. I didn’t expect to be able to bathe with them. But that’s what you get at the Karen Hill Tribe Ethical Elephant Sanctuary in Northern Thailand. It was an incredible experience to be so close to these friendly beasts in their own free environment.

Finding the Right Place

In doing my research, it became pretty clear that I had to be careful when choosing where to have my elephant experience. There are so many companies that abuse these animals. That make them carry tourists on their back. Who get poked, whipped and beat as a means of steering them and keeping them in line. Though these numbers are dwindling as people become more aware, and more alternative, humane options become available, it still takes a conscious effort to find an ethical place, a true elephant sanctuary.

A good rule is to avoid any place that offers elephant riding. These aren’t ethical places. Don’t go there, don’t give them your money.

First Elephant Sightings

I met a guy in Chaing Mai who recommended the Karen Hill Tribe Ethical Elephant Sanctuary. I emailed them to arrange my elephant experience and off I went.

The day includes a pick-up at your hotel or hostel and then a 2 hour drive up some windy roads to the sanctuary. We passed the first of many elephant sanctuaries along the route and I let out an audible “wow” as my head turned to keep my eyes on these massive but elegant animals. They really do elicit some kind of visceral response.

We pull into the sanctuary to see at least eight elephants standing in an open area. There are a few shacks on the property and we’re guided to one of the porches. As soon as we get out of the van, one elephant comes over to check out the day’s visitors. His trunk goes straight for the Thai guide and he starts to laugh. The bushels of bamboo stalks are inside the shack and this guy is always looking for a handout!

They give us some traditional Karen Hill tribe poncho-like tops to put on. The elephants know the smell of these tops and will be more comfortable to interact with us if we’re wearing them. Looking fly, we head over to where the rest of the elephants are gathered. Out comes the long grass bundles and bamboo shoots.

I’m Hanging with Elephants

With grass and bamboo at our disposal, we start feeding these gorgeous animals. I just have to hold out my hand and the trunk comes and finds the food. You can feel the strength of their trunks as they grab the food. I wasn’t even scared feeding this animals that weighs up to 5,400 kg (about 12,000 pounds). There is something about them that is actually quite calming.

We spend about an hour feeding them and just standing around with them, in awe. It was incredible how quiet these massive elephants are. I was standing next to an elephant, staring into it’s deep eyes, and another one would sneak up on me. Really, so quietly it would surprise me. You’d think you’d hear these beasts coming from a mile away. But no, their stealthy ninjas.

Each elephant has a name and responds to it. All the guys who work with the elephants are part of the Karen Hill Tribe and have an obvious bond with them. There isn’t a need to be hurtful or violent towards the elephants. Like a well-trained dog, the elephants do as they’re told, especially if they understand they’ll get a treat afterwards.

Why the the Need for an Elephant Sanctuary?

I asked about setting the elephants free, but that’s not really an option anymore in Thailand.

Half of the elephants have been born into domestication, and those that haven’t been domesticated roam freely only in the country’s national parks. The former don’t have the skills to live freely. They’ve never had to get food for themselves and are reliant on humans for that. In the past, domestication meant forced labor for lumber companies or other places doing physical labor before machines were invented, or in places where it was impossible for machines to be transported. More recently, that domestication meant being forced into the tourist industry, schlepping tourists around, and being treated poorly.

The elephants at the Karen Hill Tribe Ethical Elephant Sanctuary were either born there or have been saved from not so ethical elephant uses. They use most of the money from visitors to buy elephants from bad situations. Buying an elephant costs about $7,000. Not a little sum for Thai standards.

So coming here you know your money is going to a good place.

Bathing with the Elephants

After hanging with the elephants for a bit and feeding them, we went down a trail and up a hill to change into our bathing suits. The elephants love to bathe! And they especially love getting mud smeared all over them. It keeps them cool. It’s also a way to show affection between elephants.

With the elephants already in the water, we ran into a muddy bath that pools from the stream running just beside it. With hands full of mud from the bottom of the "bath", we rubbed the elephants. Cooling them and giving them a kind of massage. They seemed to love it. They sprayed us with their snouts, almost seeming to understand the joke of it as we laughed, turned our back or ran away.

After the elephants had enough of the mud bath, we moved on to washing them (and us) off. Using small buckets, we threw water on them and rubbed off the mud. They helped with their snouts. I couldn’t get enough of it. I didn’t want it to end.

Goodbye Magical Elephants!

After an hour or so, it was time to say goodbye to these magical creatures. Before leaving, they served us a delicious lunch, then we hopped back into the van to head back to Chiang Mai.

What an amazing experience that I highly recommend if you’re in Thailand. I felt good because it seemed clear that the people working there cared about the elephants and the elephants cared about them. They were able to interact with us or not interact with us. One of the elephants wasn’t feeling particularly social that day and was standing off to the side. We can all relate to that. And no one tried to force anything.

I’ve never had such close interactions with an animal as massive or as powerful as these elephants while at the same time feeling safe. A must-experience.