Getting an Illegal Tattoo in South Korea

When I think of Asia and tattoos, I think of full body art like those in Japan. Or of the street-side tattoo shops offering traditional bamboo tattoos in Thailand. Not mentioned in the Asian tattoo conversation is South Korea, but it should be. A growing subset of Korean youth in this seemingly conservative culture are bringing this art form to the mainstream, though in the process, artists are working underground and breaking federal law with every needle stroke. 

After two years living on the geographically isolated peninsula, I was in the market for a tattoo to symbolize my stint in Korea. Walking around Seoul, a city of ten million plus, you won’t see neon storefront tattoo signs or even muted old school tattoo parlors. Other than the random tatted Korean walking the hip streets of Hongdae, or the growing number of K-Pop stars sporting ink, there are no signs of tattoos. 

I stopped to think: In my two years in South Korea, had I had EVER seen a tattoo shop? The answer was no. Not one. How could it be? People have tattoos, but where do they get tattoos in South Korea?! 

But first, a little Korean tattoo history

Tattoos in South Korea can be traced as far back as the 4th century, when sailors were inked with icons of good luck for their oceanic journeys. Later, tattooing got a little grim when it was common for criminals to be tattooed with their crimes and slaves had their master’s name inked on their arms. The negative connotation continued into the 20h century, where those rocking ink were thought of as part of the criminal underground- thieves, philanderers, gangs.

In 1990, after a bout of skin infections resulting from tattooing, the government deemed tattooing a medical practice, on par with acupuncture. This meant that in order to operate legally, tattoo artists must also be doctors. 

Maybe somewhere in the world there is a skill-set overlap between doctors and tattoo artists, it’s a world I’d like to live in, but that world is definitely not Korea. It’s laughable that Korean moms and dads are going to send their child to medical school just so they can become tattoo artists. I’ve yet to meet one who’d be cool with that life choice. So, essentially, this 1990 law essentially erased the supply side of the Korean tattoo market. 

But don’t fret, capitalist and creative forces prevail! With a boost from Instagram and Snapchat, up popped the underground tattooing industry in South Korea.

What youth rebellion looks like in Korea

Korea has some strict social norms: respect your elders, be submissive to people in authority, don’t ruffle feathers, fit in. But fashion, style and appearance are also extremely important to Koreans and are used as a way to either fit in, or not.

In a society where more people look and act alike than not, being the person who doesn’t quite fit into the strict norms of society has it’s appeal, and that isn’t lost to Korean youth. 

But for those who don’t want to fit the mold, tattooing is the most extreme way to show people that you’re not like them. Koreans look cool. They love fashion, they always look put together, always thoughtful about their style and how they present it to people. Fashion is very intentional in South Korea and says a lot more to people than it might in another country where there is more general diversity.

This is especially true for women. Korean women, in general, opt for hyper-feminine, soft looks. I didn’t get into lipstick and beauty until I moved there. It’s almost a requirement as a female in Korea – wear lipstick, have soft hair and flawless skin, be meek, giggle. These are definitely generalities, not everyone fits into these categories, but from my experience, it’s the rule and not the exception. So a tatted woman is even a bigger shrug to the dated social expectations. Vice did a cool article about it.

Like so many other things in Korea, the social connotation and ideas associated with tattoos are shifting fast. This is a country that was completely devastated by the Korean war and in the 40 years since has rebuilt, making itself an international economic powerhouse. While on the economic side the country has caught up and even bypassed many other places, some social aspects, like their perception of tattoos, seem to be a little behind the curve. But things are changing in Korea’s young, insanely internet-obsessed culture. It’s not as uncommon to see some inked Koreans, especially in Seoul, Busan, Jeju, or other larger cities.

Getting Tattoos in South Korea

Social media, especially Instagram, has launched tattooing in Korea like nothing else. Korean tattoo artists are easy to find on social media and showcase their work as if it’s their only way of advertising, because it is. Korean tattoo artists have huge followings in a country where most eyes are firmly locked on their smartphone screen, obsessing over social media stars and anything style related.

On my journey to get my Korean tattoo, I searched Instagram, sent a few DMs and settled on my preferred artist. After some back and forth about the design, I book my appointment and spend my night fretting about the impending pain. (This is my 4th tattoo but I’m a big baby when it comes to pain, and this one is planned for my side which I heard is extra painful). 

Finding the tattoo shop isn’t easy. I find the address to be a large 21 story apartment/office building in Hongdae. I hop on the elevator for the 8th floor and find myself walking down a dark hallway to the end where I find an unmarked door with a Ring camera. After letting them know who I am, I’m let in to a bring, modern, sleek and funky tattoo parlor. No signs. No open doors. Cash only.

I went with a friend to get a tattoo with the same M.O. We had to text him when we were in front of the building. The artist met us out front and led us down to a dark basement, before opening the unmarked door to an impressive operation.

The quality of the tattoos in South Korea are amazing. Compared to the tattoo I got in Ukraine in 2011, well, it doesn’t compare. If you find yourself in South Korea and have an itch for a tatt, scope out artists on Instagram and get that ink.