Lima, Peru: Spend More Time Here Than You Think

I arrived in Lima not knowing what to expect, using it as a stopping point on my way to Machu Picchu. After wandering for a little more than 36 hours in Lima, the third largest city in the Americas, I left wishing I had more time.

Lima isn’t a top tourist destination (though it should be) so you can still feel the character of the city even at the top tourist attractions; it doesn’t get lost in the presence of foreigners.

The energy of Lima is palpable. The congested streets, packed sidewalks, tree-filled parks, history and color make Lima more than just a stopover city. It’s a destination of its own, with streets both big and small that lend themselves to incredible explorations and finds.

Getting Around Lima

Getting around Lima is tricky. Its congested and the options are a mix of public buses, private mini-buses and taxis. Walking is best way to see any new city, but if you don’t want to log 30,000 steps a day, taking a taxi here is your best bet. They’re plentiful, relatively cheap, faster than other options and alleviates the anxiety and stress of driving or trying to yell out for the bus to stop. And if you don’t speak Spanish, the buses aren’t really an option anyway. Especially from the airport, take a taxi or prearrange a car (most hostels and hotels offer this service for a charge, and it’s worth it).

Note: Be extremely careful walking in Lima. Of all the places I've been, Lima was by far the most dangerous. The drivers were nuts. I almost got hit twice by a car running a red light and stop sign. Look both ways and pay attention! You have to walk with a mix of aggression and defense. The cars will never stop to let you go, but they won't stop for you if you go. You're been warned!

Where to go in Lima

The main tourist areas of Lima are the Historic Center and Miraflores. But make sure you get out of those areas too and wander to see the day to day lives of Peruvians living in the capitol city. Walk through local markets and buy fresh fruits, nuts, and coffee. Appreciate the street art. Walk into the cafes and stores that speak to you. Enjoy Lima.

Historic Center

The best place to walk around is the Historic area of Lima, called Centro Historico. It’s full of parks, plazas, churches, cafes, and incredibly intricate balconies dotted around town, dating back to when the city was first built in 1535.

1. Monastery of San Francisco

The Monastery has an estimated 25,000 bodies that were buried in the catacombs under the monastery beginning in 1674 through 1808, when the city cemetery was opened. But they really don’t know how many bodies are still undiscovered. Thousands of skulls and bones fill the numerous crypts built underground. Historians also think that there were secret passageways that connected the church to different buildings throughout the city during the time of the Inquisition. It’s a super interesting sight, and pretty eerie.

2. Plaza Mayor

Also named Plaza de Armas of Lima, it is the birthplace and core of Lima. Stroll through the palm tree-lined walkways and check out the brightly colored government buildings and churches surrounding the plaza. Upon Lima’s founding in 1523, King Charles I of Spain declared that the growth of the city start at Plaza Mayor and move outward.

3. Cathedral Basilica of Lima

It is really just another church, but it’s worth checking out the architecture in the front of the Cathedral Basilica. The original façade from the early 17th century still remains. It’s intricate, in the most baroque sense.

4. Torre Tagle Palace

A brightly colored palace built in the 18th century and used as the home of a Spanish colonial leader. Now it houses the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Peru.

5. Plaza San Martín

This plaza is a symbol of independence and location for political protests. It was completed on the 100-year anniversary of Peru’s independence, and the central statue is a monument dedicated to Peru's liberator. When I was there, about 200 sign holding protesters filled the park. The energy was legit.

Miraflores District

Miraflores is a high-end area with fancy restaurants, shopping and hotels. It’s a good area to go out at night. Check out Pizza Street to grab a drink and a slice.

Heading south from the Historic District, you’ll go through the Miraflores District and then hit the coast. Walk through Kennedy Park and Love Park, before ending at the seaside cliffs where you can see paragliders take flight.

Kennedy Park

Named after the US President because of the aid given to Peru during his administration, and for whatever reason, it is full of cats! No one quite knows how all the cats got there, but it’s a cool park to stroll through. More than the cats, there are nice cafés around the park, local art shows and concerts every now and then.

Love Park

This park sits at the edge of some cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Not surprisingly, it is a very romantic spot to watch the sunset.

The centerpiece of the park is El Beso (The Kiss), a huge sculpture by Victor Delfin of a man and a woman’s face in the throws of a serious kiss. Each year the city has a contest to see which couple can hold that kissing position the longest.

Around the park are tiled mosaic benches with quotes about love on them. Needless to say, Love Park is a popular place for couples.

To the south of Love Park, walk towards the coast to check out Playa Verde beach. Not too much swimming, and it’s rocky, but it’s nice to walk along. You can watch paragliders jump off the cliffs above if the wind is right.

I wish I had more time in Lima, it deserved it.

It isn’t only a stopover city on your way to Machu Pichu. I loved the vibe and the energy of the city, the colors, the people. Definitely worth your time.