Hiking Cinque Terre From Riomaggiore to Monterosso

Cinque Terre is one of the most remote areas in Italy; the first and only road came in the 1960s and cars are still a rare sight. Comprised of five Villages on the coastal cliffs of the Italian Riviera, Cinque Terre, or “five lands” is a National Parks and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Villages are close enough that you can hike between them (highly recommended) or grab a train from one to the other if the hike gets to be a bit much.

Getting There

DON’T DRIVE. Just don’t do it. Parking is extremely limited, expensive, and driving on those cliffs… nope. If you already have a car, park at the La Spezia or Levanto train station and hop on the train.

BY TRAIN: Get to La Spezia or Levanto and hop on the Cinque Terre Express. It runs every 20 minutes (twice an hour in the winter) and stops at each of the 5 Villages. You can buy a train ticket and the Cinque Terre Cards at every train station in Cinque Terre, in Levanto and La Spezia or online on the Trenitalia website or app. This website has a lot of good info too.

BY BOAT: You can also get a boat in La Spezia heading to Levanto, or vice versa, that stops at 4 of the 5 Villages (Corniglia doesn’t have a landing point).

Getting from Village to Village

I was lucky enough to be there when all the trails were open for hiking, which I learned was very rare. Due to the environment, rain frequently causes landslides that result in closed hiking paths. Vernazza once had mudslides that buried the town, train tracks and trails in 4 meters of mud and debris. Recently, the section from Riomaggiore to Manarola was closed in 2019 and is expected to reopen in 2024.

Plan for hiking the whole thing, but don’t be too disappointed if you’re forced to take a leg or two by train.

By Train

Trains run between the 5 Villages every 15-20 minutes and lasts only a couple of minutes. Tickets cost €5-10 per journey depending on the season. If you’re going to go by train, buy a Cinque Terre Card to have unlimited travel between Levanto and La Spezia. The card also includes hiking fees and bus fees to more remote villages. All proceeds go to the National Park.

BETTER YET, HIKE IT!

THE HIKE

The Sentiero Azzurro (blue trail)

The Blue Trail is the most popular hiking trail running along the cliffs connecting all 5 of the Villages and offering spectacular views. It takes about six hours to hike straight through but give yourself a lot more time than that to explore the coastal towns.

You can start the hike from either direction (from Monterosso heading south, or from Riomaggiore heading north). Most people start from Riomaggiore where the paths are easier and paved, then work up to the more challenging ones, catching a train if you’re done walking.

When I was there, I was in my 20s, poor, and in great shape, so a friend and I did the whole hike in 1 day! It was incredible, but I wouldn’t do it the same way today. If you have the time and money, spend a night or 2 in one of the Villages and split up the hike. You’ll avoid the masses of people that come for the day and won’t feel rushed.

If you do it in 1 day, catch the 1st train in. I also went with my parents a few years later and took 2 legs by train.

Get more info on each hike below and you can pick and choose which leg you want to walk and which one you want to hike.

Village 1: Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore is the first of the Cinque Terre villages when travelling from La Spezia. It has fine dining and bars.

Check out Castello di Riomaggiore, the clifftop castle overlooking the village. Get some local wine and amazing views at A Pié de Ma.

Leg 1: Riomaggiore to Manarola “Lover’s Lane”

1.2 miles (2km); 40 minutes

No doubt the easiest leg of the hike. It’s famous for a kissing statue and tunnel covered in love notes.

Village 2: Manarola

The second-smallest and arguably the cutest Village, Manarola has a population of 353 and stunning ocean views.

It has a great spirally main street taking you down to the water. Go off the trail to explore the town. Eat at Nessun Dorma for sunset views. Try the local wine Sciacchetrà.

Leg 2: Manarola to Corniglia

1.2 miles (2km); 1 hour 15 minutes

A relatively easy path, until the end, with spectacular gardens and sea views. You’ll know you’re close to Corniglia when you see the Lardarina: 33 flights with 383 steps.

Village 3: Corniglia

The smallest Village with a population of about 150, Corniglia is unique because it’s not actually on the coast. It’s on the top of a cliff about 100 metres above the sea. You can see all of the 4 other Villages from a lookout point, taking in all of the Cinque Terre.

Eat local at A Cantina de Mananan: a cafe serving the best local Cinque Terre ingredients.

Leg 3: Corniglia to Vernazza

2 miles (4km); 1 hour 45 minutes

This is where things get a little spicy. This leg climbs up to the highest point of the hike, and back down. There’s a lot of up and down with steep, uneven stone steps.

I saw people with professional walking sticks on this leg. But it’s worth the effort for the stunning views of lush olive groves, exotic plants and flowers along the way.

Village 4: Vernazza

Vernazza has no car traffic and remains one of the most authentic “fishing villages” on the Italian Riviera. It’s deemed one of the most beautiful villages of Italy.

Leg 4: Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare

1.8 miles (3km); 2 hours

The longest and arguably most difficult hike. It has a lot of stairs and narrow passages, but also the most rewarding views with a panorama of all five Cinque Terre Villages.

Village 5: Monterosso al Mare

A great place to end the hike. While the other Villages lack beaches, Monterosso is alllll beach. And as a result, it is often overrun by tourists in the summer.

You could spend a whole day at Buranco – an agriturismo, vineyard and restaurant just outside the center. Take a bottle and wander the vineyard then enjoy a home-cooked lunch.

Tips

Don’t Expect a Beach Vacation

If you want to lay out on the beach, Cinque Terre isn’t for you. Monterosso is the only Village with a real beach, and it is still sand and small pebbles. The other villages either have rocky coves or harbors to swim in. I accidently jumped off a dock into the water at one of the Villages and I don’t recommend it. Bring a bathing suit in your backpack and swim at Monterosso.

Be prepared to walk… a lot

The trails are no joke. Some are paved and easier than others, but some are steep, rocky, along the cliffs and can be challenging. Wear good shoes. Flip flops are banned and are a dumb idea. Bring plenty of water and fill up at each Village.

You don’t want to be without water because you’ll be sweating.

Bring layers, no matter the season

Weather changes fast, bring a light sweater, a bathing suit and good shoes.

Support local businesses

Shop at local artisan shops for souvenirs and eat at restaurants that use local products. Support the local economy.