Gamcheon: Mountainous Slum Turned Artist Community

Gamcheon Cultural Village is on the top of most "to do" lists for Busan, and I usually avoid those places. I didn’t know what to expect, halfway expecting a played out, commercialized, somewhat gentrified "artistic" and "cultural" area. Man, was I wrong.

Riding up on the bus to Gamcheon Cultural Village reminded me of the bus ride up to Macchu Picchu, only there is civilization here. Narrow, windy roads on the cliff’s edge where at times the bus or passing car had to reverse in order for the other to pass. The arrangement of the houses reminded me of Cusco, Peru; steep stairways and alleys connecting the numerous homes that fit like Legos on the mountainside. As I rode up the mountain in a bus, I saw locals walking up and down the hills and stairs going about their daily lives. Walking to the corner store, school or work, weaving through the unmarked streets and alleyways.

History of Gamcheon Cultural Village

Gamcheon Cultural Village was a destination for refugees fleeing the Korean War in the northern cities. They lived in slum-like conditions, in bright colored homes that fit together like puzzle pieces on the mountainside. Following the war, the area bred artistic thought and grew into a popular tourist destination. Maintained by the Gamcheon Cultural Village Neighborhood Association, locals invited art students to brighten up the neighborhood by installing art pieces around the village, painting the stairs and encouraging artists to have their art studios in the village.

Exploring Gamcheon

Due to the numerous artists that call Gamcheon home, there are a variety of artist led workshops available to the public, such as natural dying, cartoon making, western painting and ecological crafts. Of course, you just need to find the artist studio, which isn’t easy in a place with crisscrossing alleyways and staircases. But it’s fun to try and even more fun to get lost.

Get there early, by 8:00, to get unobstructed views and walk the whole loop and alleyways of the village before the crowd comes. I did the whole loop early which brought me back to the bottom of the mountain. Then I grabbed the bus again back up to see some of the shops that weren’t yet open my first time around. It was a lot more crowded by that time, but it was ok because I did most of my exploration earlier.

I didn’t know where I was sometimes as I weaved through the narrow alleyways, turning a corner to see what beautiful and colorful view would greet me. I couldn’t walk ten feet without seeing some kind of art work, from painted steps and ceramic fish, to a house shaped like a teacup and painted wood planks hung randomly around town. Places like the House of Peace and the House of Darkness are tiny gallery like structures that house a single painting or a single piece of installation art. I found a brunch place just up from the Lighthouse viewpoint that served an English Breakfast with Earl Gray tea – I’m there. I sat upstairs with a glorious view of the hillside, enjoying life.

Getting to Gamcheon Cultural Village

Take the subway and exit at Toseong Station (Busan Subway Line 1), Exit 6. Walk to the first street corner and go right. You will see a bus stop. Look for the bus that says Gamcheon Culture Village (in English). It will take you up until you see the entrance to Gamcheon. It is pretty obvious.