Exploring Kiev: Capitol of Ukraine

I lived in Ukraine for two years as a Peace Corps volunteer and spent a good amount of time in Kiev. It's a pretty cool city, with amazing history, Soviet-style architecture and a vibe of new and old.

The itinerary below is a loop that starts and ends on Хрещатик street, the main drag, and takes you to some of my favorite Kiev locales.

First, the Basics

Language

Good luck if you don’t know Russian or Ukrainian.

Currency

Have cash. Credit cards are rarely accepted, and if they are you’re paying too much. Use ATMs attached to banks to withdraw Ukrainian Hryvnia.

Transportation

Use the train to get around the country. It's very efficient Soviet-age public transportation. Third class is the cheapest and is definitely communal. People will sit on your bunk if you’re on the bottom, but it's a great opportunity to chat with people. I always ride third class and have the best stories because of it.

In Kiev use the Metro, taxis and walk. In other cities use the trams, walk or use taxis. Confirm the rate before you get in the taxi.

People

It's a harsh country, with some harsh culture. Their history is violent, oppressive and dark. Trust is hard to come by as a foreigner. But you'll also come across people who are so curious and so kind. Open yourself up to it all.

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Wandering Kiev

Parts of Kiev are very walkable. And walking allows you too see the small streets, take a detour if the mood strikes, and really get the feel of this one-of-a-kind Eastern European city.

1. Cruise Khreshchatyk Street

Metro Stop: Хрещатик

Khreshchatyk is the main street of Kyiv, stretching through the Maidan. It has high end shopping and great people watching. Grab some food from restaurants on the side streets or from one of the food vendors on the sidewalk, find a bench and watch life happen around you.

You may come across a group of babushkas singing, a parade or protest. Walk it, take it in, but don’t buy anything here unless you want to pay more than anywhere else in the country.

2. Take in Maidan Nezalezhnosti 

Located on the northeastern end of Khreschatyk Street, Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Майдан Незалежності), or Independence Square, is the sight of continual political rallies and protests since Ukrainian independence in 1990, including the Orange Revolution in 2004 and the Euromaidan in 2013-2014.

During the latter, Russian-backed government snipers shot at protesters from surrounding rooftops who had been protesting in Maidan for months. The conflict escalated and the cement tiles from the square and other fixtures were ripped up and used as a protective shield from the government forces.

Stand in the middle and take in the amazing panoramic view. From here take Mykhailivs’ka Street (Михайлівська) up to Saint Michael’s.

3. Stroll from St. Michaels  to Saint Sophia 

St. Michaels Monastery (Михайлівський монастир) and St. Sophia Cathedral (Собор Святої Софії) are golden domes sisters and worth a peek.

Walk around one and stroll to the next; take in the beauty. Get lost in the cobblestone side streets in this area and walk to St. Andrew’s Church.

4. Explore St. Andrews Church & Andrew’s Descent

St. Andrew’s (Андріївська церква) is another golden adorned church that is worth walking to, not only because it is beautiful building, but because the area around it is worth seeing and feeling. You can go into the Baroque church for free. Built in the 18^th century on a hill and unstable ground, it is cracking and the church’s falling décor has been found in neighboring areas.

From the church, walk down the cobblestone steps of Andrew's Descent (Андріївський узвіз). There are local art and other vendors, Ukrainian singers and art galleries to keep you occupied as you make the decent. Grab a bite to eat at one of the restaurants lining the street and get lost in this area. Walk towards the river to check out the funicular, walk until you find a Metro stop and get back to a familiar area.

6. Have a Beer at Taras Schevchenko Park

A huge, beautiful park next to Taras Schevchenko University, perfect for a stroll, people watching or to take a rest. In the summer, the park (Тара́с Шевче́нко парк) is full of beer tents and people enjoying the end of the winter. Concerts, break-dancing and other performances are a regular during non-winter months. Chill, then walk towards the University Metro stop and down the hill, getting a free peak over the fence at the Botanical Gardens.

5. Get Cultured at Pinchuk Art Center

Coming full circle, it's a 10 minute walk to the other end of Khreshchatyk Street, where you'll find this FREE modern art gallery opened by the Viktor Pinchuk, a Ukrainian oligarch and second richest man in Ukraine. It has some incredible installations, the kind you rarely see in Ukraine. It is the largest private museum in Eastern Europe and definitely worth a visit, or few.

Mother Motherland Statue

Not really walking distance, but worth making your way to. Built in the 1950s, this massive Soviet style stainless steel statue of Mother Ukraine (Батьківщина-Мати) holding a shield with the state emblem of the Soviet Union, is more than impressive. It is part of the Museum of The History of Ukraine in World War II.

Fun fact: the tip of the sword was cut off because it was taller than the cross of the Kiev Pechersk Lavra – a monastery.

Walk around the grounds for free and see Soviet WWII tanks and other war machinery. You can climb on everything! When I was there they had a tie die tank, which I appreciated. Worth the stop, even if you aren’t into war history (I’m not).

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Sleep

I’ve stayed at the following hostels in Kiev and had great experiences (though I’m not responsible for your experience).

• TIU Kreschatik
• Magic Bus Kiev
• Kiev Central Station