Cairo, Egypt: The Land of Antiquity

I went to Cairo in December 2011. Earlier that year, hundreds of thousands of Egyptians protested the 30-year autocratic rule of Hosni Mubarak. Civilians occupied government buildings, protested in the streets, most notably in Tahrir Square, and faced violent resistance from Mubarak forces. Heeding to domestic and international pressure, Mubarak resigned 18 days later, leaving at least 846 civilians dead and more than 6,400 injured.

This was the beginning of the Arab Spring that would spread throughout the region. I feel so fortunate that I was able to visit Egypt when I did: after the uprising and before the presidential election six months later when chaos and violence reared its ugly head again, and continues as the country tries to rebuild. When I was there it was a time of hope, pride and peace.

Today, the State Department has a travel warning for Egypt because of numerous terrorist attacks. I can’t advocate you go to Egypt now, which is such a shame, but if you do, here is what I saw.

Wandering Cairo

I took a day trip from Sharm el Sheikh to Cairo to see the city and the Pyramids of Giza. While the country was in a state of relative peace when I was there, an armed guard still escorted our tour bus to Cairo and back.

Being the only American on a tour bus full of Russians, I got a little extra protection. Driving the six hours from Sharm to Cairo, we were stopped at least six times by police or at roadside checkpoints where we had to show our passports.

Driving through the city was tricky in a bus. Congestion and trucks with mounds of cardboard and trash twice their height passing within inches of my window. The city is bustling, so many people. I could feel the energy.

Egyptian Museum

Our first stop was the Egyptian Museum, one of the world’s most important collections of ancient artifacts. Right off of Tahrir Square, the museum was damaged and somewhat looted during the Arab Spring. In response to the looters, protesters formed a human chain around the building to guard its contents and prevent further looting. Luckily they were successful, avoiding the loss of irreplaceable, one-of-a-kind physical representations of history.

The museum was in some disarray when I was there, but I was still in awe walking around, scoping out the glittering treasures of Tutankhamun and other great pharaohs, lying alongside the grave goods, mummies, jewelry, bowls and toys of both well-known and everyday Egyptians of old. And by old, I’m talking about 2,000 BC old. Fucking old.

Around the Egyptian Museum I saw the effect of the Arab Spring protests all around. Buildings were burned and barely standing. A police station, a University building, businesses around Tahrir Square. It was moving to know that these violent protests occurred where I was standing, and successfully resulted in change. It was powerful.

Pyramids of Giza

What everyone relates to Egypt: Pyramids. We hopped on the bus and took the short ride to Giza to see the Great Pyramid, the oldest and largest of the three pyramids at the Giza pyramid complex thought to have been completed around 2560 BC. It was build as a tomb for the fourth Dynasty Pharaoh Khufu and his family. It is pretty incredible.

I’ve heard people say that the Pyramids are pretty underwhelming, and the modern surrounds don’t retain the ancient feel. I disagree. Those are distractions that can take away some elements of the beauty if you let them, but I was in awe. Not only from the size and ancient-ness of what I was looking at, but the view of the city it gives. You are in a different place. A place that holds so much history. Do whatever you can to ignore any distractions and make an effort to appreciate it. Take a step back from the crowds and breathe it in.

I started walking away from the Pyramid to a more deserted area that had an incredible view. I notice a man looking and following me. He keeps getting closer. As I identify my exit routes and prepare to head back without the experience I was looking for, he starts talking to me. It ends up he’s the security guy from the tour bus! He knew I was American and wanted to keep a special eye on me. Whew.

Our tour guide knew one of the guys who gives camel rides and said he could hook me up. I don't think he actually hooked me up, I may have even paid more, but he arranged for me to spend the next 30 minutes riding a camel around the Egyptian desert. Worth it.

BEWARE: It’s a touristy place and I found in Egypt especially, tourists here are targets for locals trying to sell stuff or get you to pay for a picture of their camel in front of the pyramids after you already took it. I heard stories of cameras getting stolen or destroyed because someone didn’t pay. So beware.

The Sphinx

Second to the Pyramids, the Sphinx is a staple in Egypt. Build around 2540 BC, the limestone statue of a sphinx, a mythical creature with the body of a lion and head of a human, is the oldest known monumental sculpture in Egypt (that’s saying a lot).

The Sphinx is on the Giza Plateau, not far from the Pyramids, and overlooks the city of Giza. The missing nose is a mystery for the ages. Some say it was a result of vandalism in AD 1378 by a religious leader enraged when people made offerings to the Sphinx in hopes of a better harvest. Others say it was shot off by Napoleon’s army, but historical records can’t confirm what happened.

I explored the maze-like tunnels around the Sphinx before heading up to get a good view of the mythical structure. It’s hard to wrap your head around seeing it. It is the centerpiece of so much art, so many history books and stories. It lives up to the hype.

Boating Down the Nile

The Nile River is another geographic wonder that I’d heard so much about and was excited to see. I was lucky enough to hop on a boat and ride along it.

Papyrus Making and Egyptian Oil

I checked out a local papyrus shop where the owner showed us how papyrus (paper) is made. Papyrus is a material similar to thick paper that was used in ancient times as writing surface, made from the papyrus plant. I also visited a local oil shop and go some incredible aloe and other oils that I can’t even pronounce or read their name. Definitely worth checking out some local papermaking and oil shops.