There was just something about Budapest. A city with loads of history and a cool vibe. From Castle Hill built to defend the city against Mongolian invaders, to the nightlife of gritty bars and underground music to the largest medicinal hot springs/bath in Europe. It’s affordable, cool, welcoming and definitely worth visiting. 

Getting there

I took a 36 hour train from Kiev, Ukraine to Budapest. You can just about grab a train from any major European city. While it can be a looooong journey, the scenery you see by train is so much better than when flying. And the experiences you have with friends and travel mates are unforgettable, especially if it involves vodka, which is always recommended.

Wandering Budapest

Hungary’s capital city Budapest is actually made up of 3 unified cities, with Buda and Óbuda on the west bank of the Danube and Pest on the east bank. It’s relatively easy to get around and is a very walkable city.

Ruin Pubs

Budapest is famous for its “ruin pubs”, shabby-chic bars set up in sprawling, deserted buildings, filled with comfortable, but slightly worn out furniture. Each pub has its own unique style: Instant has the crazy animal pictures, Fogas Ház is the one with the teeth, and Kuplung is the one with the whale.

The best places are found from talking with the locals, so ask around. I asked our cab driver to take us to a place with good live music and he took us to a killer spot, name long lost and forgotten, and we saw a fucking killer show that lasted well past 3 a.m. (I don’t really remember when it ended…). The guitarist cam out into the crowd. I’m pretty sure some famous musician was in the crowd because the lead singer gave him his guitar and he started wailing right next to me. The bartender threw some alcohol on the bar and decided to light it on fire. So plan to party and stay out late to really enjoy some real Budapest underground hot spots.

What to do in Buda

Explore Castle Hill

The sights to see in Buda are essentially the whole Castle Hill area. Recognized as a World Heritage Site in 1987, Castle Hill can be seen from most places throughout the city. The area was built up in the 11^th century when protective walls were erected to keep Mongolian attackers out.

Castle Hill is home to Buda Castle, the Labyrinth, art galleries, museums, Fisherman’s Bastion, Matthias Church and countless statues, shops and parks. Spend a day soaking in the history, exploring the medieval cobblestone streets, statues and sites.

To get there, walk across Hungary’s first permanent structure to cross the Danube, the Chain Bridge (Széchenyi Lánchíd), or the Liberty Bridge from Pest.

Then take the second oldest funicular in the world, Budavári Sikló. Riding it up the equivalent of 30 flights of stairs is the fastest way to get up the hill and gives you incredible views of the city in the meantime.

Bonus Tip: When coming down, don’t walk down the path from Castle Hill in the winter. About ten minutes in, trying to tiptoe down the icy switchbacks, I decided to take the direct path and slide down the snow-covered hill. Bad mistake. Down I went, building speed, without being able to stop. Eventually I grabbed a branch to stop my decent before I plummeted off the edge. So, lesson learned from me to you, take the funicular or a cab back down!

Extra Bonus Tip: Spend some time after dark on Castle Hill. The view is incredible.

Buda Castle

Buda Castle is one of the attractions atop Castle Hill. Razed and rebuilt over the centuries, it is now home to the Hungarian National Gallery and Budapest History Museum.

Buda Hill was first completed in 1265; the massive Baroque palace that sits there today was built between 1749 and 1769.

I didn’t go into the castle, but you can spend a good amount of time walking around it, appreciating the detailed statues and monuments.

We brought some Pálinka, a fruity Hungarian alcoholic drink, found a bench and had a few sips as we enjoyed the scenery.

The Labyrinths of Buda Castle

Explore a series of caves under Castle Hill where Vlad Tepes, better known as Vlad the Impaler, or Count Dracula, was held captive and tortured for 14 years. Go at night, preferably after a few drinks.

After paying a mere $5, you’re given a lantern, no map, no signs, just your sense of adventure and curiosity. It’s dark and you can go a ways without seeing another person. I’ll admit it, I got scared.

There are a lot of areas off the beaten path and it’s not always clear whether you can go there or not, which adds to the effect. You come across different statues, a rock with wine coming out of it, items such as a toaster and iPhone seemingly frozen in ice, mannequins dolled up as characters from the Phantom of the Opera, and deep holes and caves that don’t seem to end.

About midway, you get to the Maze of Darkness. Hold onto the green garden hose and walk through pitch blackness for about five minutes. Don’t let go of the hose, or you’ll end up lost in historical prison cells that haven’t been remodeled yet to be safe for tourists. It’s a strange place and I don’t really get the aesthetics … but worth checking out.

Faust Wine Cellars

Recommended prior to going to the Labyrinth, this historic wine cellar is located underneath Buda Castle and is the perfect place to sample wines from some of the 22 Hungarian wine regions. You also have the opportunity to sample traditional Hungarian fruit palinka (a yummy alcoholic drink). A sommelier will give you tasting notes during your visit, so that you can get the most out of each wine that you try.

Fisherman’s Bastion

Fisherman’s Bastion (or Halászbástya) is a neo-Gothic castle-like structure built between 1895 and 1902 that looks like it’s taken straight out of a fairytale. It’s is named after the medieval group of fishermen who protected Budapest from invasion.

The gleaming white structure provides panoramic views of the city and is a great spot for pictures. I was pretty amazed by not only the view but of the architecture and color.

Matthias Church

I’m not usually one for churches, but this one is an exception. This Roman Catholic church was originally built in 1015, then extensively restored to match the motif of Fisherman’s Bastion.

There is an area to sit and have lunch or take in the views while you rest your feet.

What to do in Pest

The Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

For the essential Hungarian Bath experience, why not go to the largest medicinal bath in Europe?!

The water at Széchenyi is supplied by two thermal springs, their temperature is 74 °C and 77 °C, respectively. We planned on spending only a few hours here but that quite easily turned into five hours.

The entrance fee covers use of the pools and locker room. Additional spa services are available for an extra fee. Bring your suit, towel and sandals and relax in the steamy spa. You’ll get the full European experience, Speedos and all, and may not want to leave.

I don’t recommend planning anything for that evening other than getting some food and relaxing. It’s hard to get out of that relaxation mode, and really, you won’t want to.

Hősök tere (Hero’s Square)

Hero’s Square is one of the major squares in Budapest, noted for its impressive statues and monument.

The square and the monument are dedicated to those who gave their lives for Hungarian freedom and independence, including the seven Magyar chieftains, considered to be the founders of the Hungarian nation, and 14 statues of royalty and other important figures in Hungarian history.

 

Bonus tip: be sure to nab a corn on the cob from one of the food carts in the area.

Fairytale Castle and Park

Not a genuine castle, but more so a reflection of the history and evolution of Hungarian architecture. At first, this castle was designed for the 1896 Millennium Celebrations but was beloved by the public so much that in 1904 it was rebuilt to be permanent.

Great Market Hall

Peruse three floors of stalls inside a restored neogothic structure at the largest and oldest indoor market in Hungary. Built in 1897, it’s at the end of the famous pedestrian street Vaci utca, across from Liberty Bridge.

Most of the stalls on the ground floor sell produce, meats, pastries, candies, spices, and spirits. You’ll find hanging strings of red paprika and garlic, Hungarian salamis, sausages, hams and other meat products, fresh pastries, Hungarian wines and palinka, and other tasty goodies.

The second floor has cafes and souvenirs. The basement has butcher shops, a fish market, and picked vegetables including the traditional cucumber pickles, as well as cauliflower, cabbage, beets, tomatoes, and garlic.

The market is closed on Sunday, opens at 6am on other days, and closes at 5pm Monday, 6pm Tue-Fri and 3pm Saturday.