Green Turtle Nesting on the Beach in Tortuguero

You won’t find fancy beaches, swimming, mountains or fancy restaurants in Tortuguero, but you will be able to witness something magical. Tortuguero can be translated as Land of Turtles and gives its name to the neighboring Tortuguero National Park. It is considered the most important nesting site on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica for four turtle species. They return to deposit their eggs on the coast year after year, and you can watch them during this incredible process.

Nesting schedules vary – Leatherback turtles nest between February to April, loggerhead turtles nest from July to October, and hawksbill turtles from March to October. But in terms of sighting, your best chances are with green sea turtles that arrive in large numbers between the months of July and October.

Getting to Tortuguero

Tortuguero is a narrow strip of land that floats between the Caribbean Sea and the Tortuguero Lagoon. It is barely attached to the mainland Costa Rica and has no road connection with the rest of the country. So, the only two ways to get to Tortuguero are by domestic plane or by boat.

To get to Tortuguero, make your way to the La Pavona dock. Boats from La Pavona to Tortuguero village leave approximately at 7:30, 11:00, 1:00, and 4:30, though these times are not exact as the boat will wait for the local bus to arrive from San Jose via Cariari before departing. It is best to arrive early to ensure you don’t miss the boat. Buy your $3 tickets at the restaurant inside the main building once you arrive.  

Once you leave La Pavona, say goodbye to cars and enjoy the hour or so ride through the canals to Tortuguero village. There are no roads once you leave La Pavona, you get around Tortuguero via dozens of freshwater canals. 

Tortuguero Village

Tortuguero Village lies on a sandbar island, separated from the mainland by Tortuguero River with the Caribbean Sea on the other side. With a population of around 1,200, it is almost entirely supported by ecotourism. There isn’t much to do around the village, a few shops and restaurants, but it is worth a short walk around. 

Turtle Nesting

We were there for green turtle nesting and set up a tour with our hotel. Wherever you stay, they will have information about turtle tours. On these tours, you are not allowed to take pictures or use any flashlights, as it could disturb and disorient the turtles. 

Tip: Bring and wear good quality waterproof gear – jacket, pants, boots – you’ll need them. 

Our tour began at 8 p.m. where we met with the guides and other eager turtle watchers. You cannot go onto the beach during nesting season without a tour guide. We wait off of the beach until the tour guide finds a turtle. We quietly walk to the beach and are taken to see this huge, majestic animal using her fins to dig a hole about 3 feet deep. The turtle shell is at least 3 feet in diameter. And then it begins.

The turtle starts to drop turtle eggs, larger than a chicken egg, into the hole she has dug. One after another, until about 50 eggs are nested. The process takes a few hours. Only about 10% of these eggs will make it to the sea. 

After she is done depositing the eggs, she uses the last of her strength to cover up the hole and make her way back to the sea, never to see those eggs or hatchlings again. To see the process is awe inspiring. 

Where to Stay

There are some hotels and hostels within Tortuguero village, but to get the full experience, find a place along the peninsula. We stayed at Laguna Lodge.

Most hotels can arrange boat rides either from La Pavona or from Tortuguero Village and are all-inclusive, because there are no restaurants or other services within walking distance; boat taxis are needed for everything. Most places also have amazing pools since the swimming in the area is not safe due to piranhas, sharks and dangerous tides. 

Where to Next?

Check out my other Costa Rica posts! – Ziplining in the Monteverde Cloud Forest and Hiking Arenal Volcano in La Fortuna.